There is something about wandering, lost in the rain, that is still the greatest way to get to know a place. Not so great for curly hair or suede boots, but sacrifices must be made. A slow, steady stroll. Bridge over the vast, grand cemetery. Hills must be climbed. Nooks uncovered. And at the top, where the view stretches beyond the the towers and arches to the city’s southern walls, there’s space to breathe it in.